Travels through congregations in Uzbekistan
by Gerhard Hechler
I had mixed feelings as I boarded the plane from St. Petersburg to Tashkent. At the request of the Gustav Adolf Fund in Hessen-Nassau I traveled for a week (February 25 to March 2) to Lutheran congregations in Uzbekistan. The city of Tashkent, as with the rest of the country throughout my visit, enchanted me. After the Petersburg winter the spring heat was very welcome. The people I met were friendly and I felt the country's openness. When on the first day I stood in from of the Lutheran kirche in Tashkent, I felt as if I were at home in a foreign land. Alfred Eicholtz, Bishop of the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Kyrgyzstan, and I had agreed to meet in front of the church. Bishop Eicholtz has been taking care of congregations in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan for the past few years, and he accompanied me as I traveled between congregations. In the second half of the day we met with the Roman Catholic Bishop Ezhi Matsulevich, who has maintained constant, positive contact with the Lutheran Church. After returning to the kirche, we were warmly met by the Schmidt family – Vitor, who is the church council president, and Ludmilla, who leads worship. When we saw one another Ludmilla and I remembered that we already knew each other – we had met at the course of extension education at the Theological Seminary in Novosaratovka in 2013, where I was a teacher and she was a student. We were very happy to meet again!
The Sunday worship service was the most beautiful part of the trip for me. I felt at home. The sun was shining brightly through the windows of the wonderful church, built in 1899. Ludmilla Schmidt led the liturgy in German while Bishop Eicholtz preached in Russian. The congregation sang in German and I sang the hymns together with the choir. I greeted the congregation as the second chair of the Gustav Adolf Fund in Hesse-Nassau; the portraits of Martin Luther, Gustav Adolf of Sweden, the familiar liturgy and wonderful hymns all helped me feel like I was in my homeland, even if I was thousands of kilometers away. It was clear that the congregation was happy to have a guest from Nassau for the first time in the last 10 years. The theme of “buildings” was brought up already on the meeting on Saturday. A group of experts set out for Chirchik, around 30 kilometers from the capital, to look at two church buildings – a prayer house and a residential home which have been empty for quite some time. A lot of time will be necessary in order to find written confirmation that these building belong to the Lutheran church and that means that Viktor Schmidt and Bishop Eicholtz have a lot of difficult work ahead of them. There is a similar situation with a residential building in Tashkent – documentary evidence needs to be found.
The Village of Krasnogorsk
After the Sunday service a group left for the village of Krasnogorsk in the Tashkent region; there worship was also in German and was led by Valentina Schweitz. The congregation meets in a small sanctuary set up in a private residence. I was impressed by the unity and sincerity of the congregation there. In discussions with sisters and brothers in Christ there, I learned that after 1955 the grandmothers and grandfathers of the current congregational members had to decide where they would go after deportation, and they traded Siberian cold for Uzbek warmth. The generation of Valentina – the grandchildren of the deported – was already born here, and it is their homeland. Some of them were not allowed to leave for Germany – they didn't know the language well enough or were of the wrong age. Some remained because they are in mixed marriages and their relatives are near by. It was during this service that I came to understand that the Lutheran faith is for many people a very important support. They live in a foreign context and their meetings in the prayer hall is part of their homeland and their identity. I was already acquainted with a similar situation from St. Anna's and St. Peter's in St. Petersburg – people need one another and need German fellowship.
In the Fergana Valley
During this long trip – more than 300 km to the congregation in Fergana – I had enough time to ask Bishop Eicholtz about the history of the congregations there, their quantity and the life of Lutherans in Uzbekistan. Outside the windows were the snow-covered mountain tops and the Kamchik pass, after which the Fergana valley began. The first Germans came to Uzbekistan in the second half of the 19th century; they were government workers and military personnel. It was they who built the first Lutheran churches. In the 1930s Russian Germans were repressed by Stalin's order, and in 1955 after they were allowed to move from their place of deportation many came to Uzbekistan. Congregations met secretly. In the late 1980s there were approximately 80000 German Lutherans in Uzbekistan. Mass emigration to Germany followed. Bishop Eicholt's opinion is that today there are a few hundred Lutherans left in the country.
In Fergana we guests were greeted as more than as acquaintances, but as members of the family. Worship was held in the prayer house that the congregation owns; it was led by the brave sisters that are members of the congregation. Later, at tea with German sweets the women told us about the fate of their families, about their care for the congregation, about the love for the church that was passed on from their grandparents to their parents and on to them. Their stories were full of life. It is worth noting that this congregation has all their bureaucratic issues solved – the building belongs to the congregation and they have all the papers to prove it. This fact brought us guests hope that there is light at the end of the tunnel for the congregations that still have to go through the process of solving all their legal issues.
Samarkand
Traveling by car you get various impressions – leaving the large city of Tashkent with its noise and busyness, it reminds one of Germany. Then after a few hundred kilometers outside of the window you see landscapes with rice fields, cotton plantations and fruit orchards. Village dwellers lead a completely different life than city dwellers. The average wage is very small, sometimes it isn't even enough to pay the electric bill...and this is in Samarkand! A taxi driver yields the road to a mule-driven buggy, and even here you can see civilization – the buggy has rubber tires. It was the last day of the trip – a visit to the ancient city of Samarkand, getting acquainted with the grand constructions of the Registan and also searching for the prayer house of the congregation. Unfortunately the congregation lost its registration and no longer exists; the prayer house was sold. Getting registered again is very difficult. The life of the congregation, you could say, has been shuttered.
Humility and Hope
The strongest impression from this visit was the hospitality of congregations and especially the shared meals, where we were offered various dishes of wonderful Uzbek cuisine. I promised that I would come again.
“Humility” - this is the word that comes to mind when I think about my impressions. Uzbekis live in a developing country and they live differently than people in Germany. Uzbeks have difficult conditions of work and life, but they live, probably, with greater joy. I think that people here would only shake their heads in wonder if they would hear the kinds of social and personal topics that are discussed in Germany. They wouldn't understand our problems, our fears and our goals.
After the trip I visited an elderly member of St. Anna and St. Peter's in St. Petersburg. She told me: “socialism brought freedom to women in that country where Islam was dominant. And moreover – a decent elementary education for boys and girls.”
Yes, in the evening in Uzbekistan you can see school children dressed in their uniforms returning home. It brings one hope, and one can with confidence wish a successful future to this generation.”